Robb Recommends: This Fast-Cooking, ‘Secret’ Cut of Pork Is a Weeknight Gourmet’s Dream
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$42.78 for 0.8 lbs at gourmetfoodstore.com
It’s not much of a looker—but this ain’t a beauty contest. The cut known as the Iberico Pork Secreto is a long, flat sheet of meat that resembles a skirt steak. It doesn’t have the drama of a beautiful ham or a bone-in pork chop. However, what it lacks in appearance it completely makes up for in flavor, tenderness and ease of cooking. And that’s why it has become one of my favorite cuts of pork to prepare.
The meat comes from the outside of the shoulder muscle on the richly marbled Iberico pigs that feast on acorns to get fattened up before being turned into the famed Spanish delicacy, Iberico ham. That means there’s a high level of intramuscular fat in the meat, which makes it so rich. It’s reminiscent of the ribeye cap steak, and it reminds me of one of my favorite pieces of pork to eat: that part of the pork loin under the fat cap where the meat is darker than the rest of the roast. The secreto is like having an entire cut of meat that’s entirely that rich, tender, deeply flavored piece of the loin.